being ethical · handmade wardrobe · sewing

Kalle Shirt & Fashion Revolution

Fashion Revolution week is just a few days away, and while my mind is on the cause all year round, it’s coming up on the time to inform and inspire – and I have big plans for doing just that next week!

Not sure what Fashion Revolution week is?

 

“On 24 April 2013, the Rana Plaza building in

Bangladesh collapsed. 1,138 people died and

another 2,500 were injured, making it the fourth

largest industrial disaster in history.

That’s when Fashion Revolution was born.

There were five garment factories in Rana Plaza all manufacturing clothing for big global brands. The victims were mostly young women.

WHAT NEEDS TO CHANGE:
The Model, Material, and Mindset”

 

Fashion Revolution is about asking retailers who made the clothes they sell. Are they working in safe conditions and getting paid fairly? Are retailers following environmentally safe practices to ensure a healthy world? Clothing doesn’t just magically land on a shelf for you to buy. There are a lot of steps and people garments go through to end up in your closet.

For the past few years, I’ve been an advocate for Fashion Revolution because, as a maker, I know firsthand just how much time and energy can go into making a garment. It’s been an important mission for me because I believe every single person that works in the fashion industry deserves a voice. From the farmers to the makers- working environments should be safe and wages should be fair.

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For me personally, I’ve made it a mission to buy as little as possible from retail stores. I still buy basic necessities like underwear and socks, but almost everything else is made or bought second hand. (I also buy shoes, because that’s a whole ‘nother beast to tackle!)

But two weeks ago I had a breakdown. I was going to a concert for Drew’s co-worker and had nothing to wear. My go-to spring jacket wasn’t fitting comfortably (damn you, winter body!) and I was feeling really crappy about myself. So I ran to Target, and bought a jacket.

It’s actually a really cute jacket, and in a color I’ve been dying to make, but haven’t had the time. And I’ve worn it several times since purchasing. Is it the best quality and fit? No. Did I know that going into purchasing? Hell yea. But I know that I’m going to wear it constantly and I’m happy my sewing list hasn’t added a new item. What’s even better is, once this jacket has had it’s day in my wardrobe, I will be happy to refashion it!

Fashion Revolution isn’t about denying your shopping addiction. It’s about making smarter choices and getting major retailers to make changes. It’s about calling out a retailer and asking them to be more transparent. The more people who ask, the less they can deny an answer.

Kalle Shirt - Trish Stitched

Target, my new jacket goes great with my ‘me made’ Kalle Shirt! I know who made my top, but who made my jacket?

DSC_0060-014Kalle Shirt - Trish Stitched

I’ve done a little research about Target’s brands, and the company is filled with good and bad. I’m no expert, and I haven’t yet taken the time to fully research, but from the basics, they want to be ethical but still need to work on their transparency with each individual brand they carry. I will certainly need to do more research, and encourage you to give a little shoutout to a store you love and ask what their practices are!

 

A few more details about my Kalle Shirt. I made View B with a popover placket and band collar. The fabric was from my trip to California – I scored it at Michael Levine’s Discount Loft! I have no idea what it is but it was a pain to work with. It was slippery and did not liked to be marked with any kind of pen/pencil. It also didn’t care to be interfaced and I had to re-do the hem three times.

Kalle Shirt - Trish StitchedKalle Shirt - Trish StitchedKalle Shirt - Trish Stitched

This is not my best make, but it’s still pretty good. There are a few things I would change, but I worked SO. HARD. to get the prints to line up nicely, that I’m pretty proud of the result. Since the fabric was slippery, I had a difficult time with the collar band, and the topstitching is a little wonky, but it’s one of those things only I would notice.

This Kalle had a test run yesterday, and it’s super comfy and I really like that it covers my behind. I’m not a leggings person, so I don’t really like tunics, but this is the perfect balance between long and loooong.

I cropped my Kalle a few inches (to be honest I can’t remember how many) and took the back hem up to better match the front. Short bodies and long hems don’t mix all that well. I’ve been having crazy itches to make more tops, especially with Me Made May coming up, and this make was no where near my sewing list but I had to stop everything to make it!

Look out next week for my Fashion Revolution Posts!

 

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#RefashionFriday · handmade wardrobe · refashion

#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top

Happy Spring! Although we got our 4th snow storm this month 2 days ago, the sun is shining and I can actually hear birds chirping! It’s been such a crazy month, but we are finally in the moving process! In just 5 more weeks, we will move into our new home! The past couple weeks have been filled with cleaning, packing, shopping and tying up loose ends.  I’ve been pulled in a few different directions, so apparel sewing was not on my mind. But my creativity needed a huge boost, and this sweater needed a facelift – so I thought we could help each other out.

I bought this sweater at the thrift store a few months ago – mainly for the print. It started as a 1X, but I turned it into between an XS – S. When I first started reading about other refashioners, I was a little shocked by the amount of backlash some bloggers got about buying XL clothes to make smaller. Because it was taking the larger sizes away from those who really needed them. At first it made me rethink my buying, but then I would go to the store and see the same pieces sitting there week after week. No one was buying them, and that’s when I realized sizing was just part of the hunt.

Today’s Refashioning Tip: Any item that you find, and you want, it’s yours! The reality is, that any article taken from the thrift store is saving it – whether you wear it as is or turn it into something new.

I’m fortunate that my petite figure gives me a wide range of sizes to refashion, but even after a shopping trip, there are plenty of pieces left behind! Now a lot of bloggers will recommend buying oversized clothes because it will give you more fabric to work with. And while that’s a great tip, it’s still a good idea to like what you are buying, not just buy because it’s oversized. (The more you like it, the more motivated you are to work with it!)

But now back to this sweater. I wanted a quick refashion. Something easy, but super wearable, with a little more pizazz than just resizing it to fit. Sweater refashions are very common, and there are a million ideas for them on pinterest. One of my favorites is adding another texture to break up the sweater and make it a little less casual.

#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top - Trish Stitched

Adding coordinating fabric is a great stash buster! I had this black chiffon left over from my Black Tie Wedding Guest Dress, and thankfully it was just enough to gather for the bottom portion of this sweater!

#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top - Trish Stitched#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top - Trish Stitched#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top - Trish Stitched

The first step was to resize the top. I took roughly 3″ in on both sides and removed the arms. The arms were sucked in as well, then reattached. After reattaching the arms, I tried the sweater on to hem the sleeves (about 3″), mark where to cut the sweater body. I wanted the sweater hem to end right around my hips, so I added a half inch to that length (for seam allowance), and cut.

#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top - Trish Stitched#RefashionFriday Oversized Sweater to Top - Trish Stitched

There are a whole bunch of options when adding a new hem to a top. I decided to make a 5″ extension because anything longer makes me look short. After gathering my chiffon, I attached to the sweater and finished it off with a simple hem. And that’s it! This was a very easy refashion, and just the quick project I needed.

Inspiration: 

My favorite inspiration today comes from Merrick’s Art. She wrote up a great tutorial to make your own chiffon hem top!

merricksart

Another great idea is to layer your hem, which could be fun with different colors or prints. This top from Anthropologie is so pretty!

anthro top

Leave the hem a little longer to create a tunic style top!

tunic

Last thing to share: Do you join Facebook groups? I recently joined a few and love that my news feed is filled with so much sewing! My favorite group so far is Upcycle Sewing. It’s been a great place to get and share ideas, and I totally recommend joining! What are some of your favorite Facebook groups?

Have you done a recent refashion? Send photos and details to trish@trishstitched.com to be featured! And follow along my refashioning finds through Pinterest!

Have a great weekend!

handmade wardrobe · sewing

Denim Kalle Shirt: Extended Cop Top

Really now, where has the month of February gone? It flew by and I didn’t get everything done that I planned on! I’ve mentioned a few times about house hunting and finally moving out of Hoboken, and I don’t want to jinx anything but we think we found the one! I’ll definitely have more details about this soon enough, but for now you can see where my brain is at based on my pinterest boards. I have a whole lot of home ideas going on- with a ton of focus on my future sewing studio!

Because of all the excitement with the house, my personal sewing has not been getting as much attention. But this super cute Kalle top would not stop haunting me, so here she is!

Denim Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish Stitched

I have a slight obsession with Closet Case Patterns because Heather’s patterns are so fitting for my lifestyle. She designs practical patterns that are meant to be wardrobe staples, and the ones I’ve made so far (Bombshell Bathing Suit, Kelly Anorak, Ginger Jeans) have proven their versatility in my closet. I loved Kalle when she came out. She is a super cute pattern that comes with three options: Crop Top, Tunic and Dress. I really wanted to see others versions of Kalle before diving in, because all three of those options were not common pieces in my wardrobe. I would want a regular top version, but didn’t know the best way to design it so I thought eventually I would get inspiration from the sewing community.

Denim Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish StitchedChambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish Stitched

Fast forward a few months and everyone is making Kalle. Every time I open Instagram- there’s another version! So I finally caved and bought the pattern. To make it fit my lifestyle, I either had to shorten the tunic or lengthen the crop top. I really love the hem of the crop top, so I decided to go that route.

This is technically a wearable muslin. I’ve had this lightweight denim hanging around for years from another project, and thought a denim version would be good to have. I didn’t have any blue thread, so I went with white and quite like the contrast. I say this is a win in my book. This top is easy to wear, has a cute fit for being ‘oversized’, and after a few washes, will get that worn in feeling of a great piece.

Chambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish StitchedChambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish StitchedChambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish Stitched

The older I get, the fewer patterns I tend to buy. I’ve become very conscious about what’s in my stash and even though Joann’s has those great 5 for $5 pattern days, I realize that just because you have a million patterns to make doesn’t mean you will ever get around to actually making them. (I also have a few patterns from my own stash available on etsy because there is no way I’ll get around to making them!) I’m always on the lookout for basic patterns with options- and Kalle one is loaded with them!

Kalle has three lengths, two front button options, two collar options, and two back options – leaving lots of room to build your perfect style. My version is comprised of View A (full length placket) with a full collar, and back pleat. I cut a size 2 and to extend the crop top into a longer shirt, I added 4″ to each bodice piece at the lengthen line.

Chambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish StitchedChambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish StitchedChambray Kalle Shirt: Extended Crop Top - Trish Stitched

I’m excited to make more versions, and to finally add mine to the amazing Kalle Shirt Dress posts online! Have you made Kalle? Do you have the sleeve expansion? That may be the next version I have to make..

handmade wardrobe · inspiration · sewing

Black Tie Wedding Guest Dress

Today I wanted to share a dress I made (and wore) back in November, that I didn’t get around to blogging about!

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Drew and I were invited to two black tie weddings last year (both co-workers of his), and it was the first time I’ve been invited to such formal events. The first wedding in July resulted in my refashioned bridesmaids dress, and I originally wanted to make a black tie dress from scratch for the November wedding.

I had planned on making this Leanne Marshall pattern, and came across a really beautiful sequined vest I thrifted to use as the bodice, but all plans went out the window when I found an even better bodice option.

I found this amazing piece at a local Goodwill and couldn’t let it go. It’s 100% silk, beaded in India and a size small (perfect fit) for $5.99. At the time I had no idea what to do with it but this is one of those extremely rare thrift finds that you just have to buy (or is that just my logic?).

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I decided it was destined to become part of my dress for the November black tie wedding. The only problem was I didn’t want to cut into the embroidered bodice, and didn’t want to attach it to a dress I could only wear once. After mulling ideas around for while, the lightbulb went off (gotta love when that happens) and I had a plan!

By making a base bodice and an over-skirt, I would be able to tuck the embroidered top in and have it look like one full piece. Seamwork Ariane felt perfect for under the embroidery because wearing a bodysuit meant I didn’t have to worry about a tank top riding up all night and the pattern was already in my library. (For size reference, I’m just under 4’10” and made an XS and did not shorten the pattern)

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For the skirt, I drafted my own pattern. It is a simple A-line skirt with a gathered chiffon overlay. It’s a very basic skirt, but I really wanted the top to be the show-stopper. I loved the idea of a chiffon overlay, and went with a satin for the skirt. I do wish I went with a lighter fabric for the skirt because walking around and dancing felt heavy after awhile, but it still worked out.

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I am very happy I decided to make separates, and am so thrilled I didn’t need to cut the embroidered top to make this dress work!

Drew and I had a great time at the wedding, and they even had a mariachi band and donkey during cocktail hour! I had to beg Drew to take a picture with the donkey, and now he’s the one who loves the picture and shows everyone!

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Fabric Details:

Bodysuit: Techno Scuba Knit, Black (fabric.com)

Skirt: Telio Adore Duchess Satin, Black (fabric.com)

Skirt Overlay: Telio Zoe Chiffon Solid, Black (fabric.com)

 

I have two weddings to attend this year and am already planning my makes. They aren’t black tie, so my attire can be a little more relaxed. Here’s this year’s inspiration!

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I am obsessed with Colette’s latest pattern, Myrna (middle photo). Maybe it’s the fabric that drew me in, but I love the bust details and the short sleeves, and think this would be a great pattern for a summer wedding.  I’ve also been loving cap sleeves lately, and I’ve been craving to make a dress with an interesting back.

(Top left is from Modcloth, top right from Rent the Runway, the other two no longer have working links)

In reality, I have so many handmade dresses in my closet that I really don’t need to make any new ones. But it’s always a good idea to stretch your dress sewing skills every once in a while, right?!

handmade wardrobe · sewing

Printed Hemlock Tee

Back in November, Drew and I went to California for his friend’s wedding. We bought one way tickets months before, but none back as we figured we would use this time for a vacation. We had no plans, no hotels, no plane home but we were up for an adventure.

We decided to do a small tour of California, starting where the wedding was in Santa Barbara and working our way towards LA, to LAX. At each stop, I had to look up fabric stores. That’s a given, right? Our second stop was in the beautiful town of Ojai where I found this amazing fabric store Cattywampus. I love finding smaller shops because they usually have fabrics you can’t find anywhere else, and they sell curated goods that are usually online only.

Cattywampus has a beautiful location and really fabulous finds. I’ve secretly always wanted a boutique, and over time have wanted a fabric/craft store that held classes (I even found the perfect location that was for sale a few years ago) and this shop is everything I would want.

Their fabric selection isn’t very large, which means they really care about each bolt that’s on the shelf. I had a hard time deciding what to get and walked away with two cuts. (I blame my carry-on suitcase and knowing we would be fabric shopping in LA). One is an adorable hedgehog print that I’m saving for a fun bag lining; the second was this stunning lightweight cotton. I was really drawn to the print and was told it was hand-printed in India- which just made me love it more.

Printed Hemlock Tee - Trish Stitched

I knew I wanted to make a top out of this print. Something simple, to let the print really shine. I had a few options in mind, including a Lou Box Top and Mandy Boat Tee. Ultimately I chose a new pattern: The Hemlock Tee from Grainline Studio. This is a free pattern that I’ve wanted to try for a while, and thought it would be a nice look for this fabric. (Just sign up for Grainline Studio’s Email List for the free pattern!)

Printed Hemlock Tee - Trish StitchedPrinted Hemlock Tee - Trish Stitched

The Hemlock Tee is one size, so I did some major alterations to make it fit petite. I didn’t like the neckline, as it was way too wide for my frame. I cut out 1/2″ from the CF on the pattern, meaning 1″ was taken out from the center in total. I probably could have done an extra 1/2″, but didn’t want to cut too far in. I also shortened the pattern 4″, and hemmed an extra 1″, since the pattern is very long. The last alteration was while sewing the sleeves. I only cut 4″ of the sleeve pattern, hemmed the raw edge and folded in until the bodice seam. I saw a few hemlock tee’s with the folded sleeve and loved the look so I had to try it out for myself!

Printed Hemlock Tee - Trish StitchedPrinted Hemlock Tee - Trish Stitched

Printed Hemlock Tee - Trish Stitched

After wearing my Hemlock and taking photos, I can definitely take it in a little bit. I can just hear my mom saying “this does nothing for you!” haha! But I absolutely love the boxy look. My daily uniform is slowly becoming skinny jeans, booties and boxy tops. As soon as I put this top on, I wanted to make a pair of black skinny jeans and a cute cardigan to finish off the look. There’s nothing quite like a motivating make!

My final thoughts on the Hemlock Tee: for a free pattern it’s a great base. I do love the look, and how many hacks there are in the sewing world for this pattern, but for petite figures, this was not a cut & sew. I am however, excited to have another pattern that is great for both knits and wovens and encourage you to check it out if you haven’t already!

#RefashionFriday · handmade wardrobe · inspiration · refashion

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion

It’s the first Friday of the New Year and the first #RefashionFriday!

It’s pretty obvious I love sewing, and over the years I’ve dabbled in all different variations of sewing. Lingerie, Active Wear, Basics…etc., but the category that has always been close to my heart is refashioning. With every refashion I do, I feel a better sense of accomplishment than some regular apparel project. My creativity is tested, my environmental heart is happy, and I am always blown away by the response my pieces get.

When I share refashions, I’m often asked where my ideas come from or how others can start refashioning. I’m no expert in the field – but there are some aspects of refashioning I take seriously, and I wanted to start a new series to showcase my latest refashions, refashioning ideas, and your makes!

My (personal) refashioning rules:

  1. Make it wearable. When I used to hear the word “refashioning”, images of patchwork and franken-pieces came to mind. My refashioning style tends to steer away from pieces that look refashioned, and one of the ways to avoid this homemade look is to reference fashion from today!
  2. Don’t cut up precious vintage. I love fashion, and know a good, valuable piece when I see it. If it looks vintage, or has a hefty price tag in the store, do a little research before deciding to chop it up (the same goes for designer pieces).
  3. Keep an eye on today’s styles & shapes. I am always window shopping my favorite stores to see what pieces are not only selling in real life, but what new styles could fit into my everyday wardrobe. I’m on Modcloth.com & Anthropologie.com constantly!
  4. Don’t be afraid to keep it simple. Refashioning doesn’t just mean transforming a piece into something unrecognizable. It can be as simple as hemming, taking side seams in or adding/removing sleeves!

Refashion:

Today’s refashion is a direct copy from Chickie Walsh – yes I get inspired by other makers all the time! I loved her version of cargo pants to vest and had the perfect pants to experiment with.

I bought these cargo pants a few years ago and had a really awful shopping experience to get them. Long story short, it was a pain to have them delivered, and when they arrived, they didn’t fit properly (the waist is way too big). Because of the hassle, I decided to just keep them, and over the years they’ve gotten some wear, but I’ve never been in love with them. I replaced them last year with a handmade version, but still didn’t get rid of the original. After seeing Chickie’s version, it all just clicked.

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

For this refashion to work, it was all about strategic cutting. I wanted those side cargo pockets right on the front, so the top halves of the pants were the front. This meant the bottom of the legs had to be the back. I ripped the seams in the crotch and all the way down the inner legs. I then chopped the leg pieces in half, having two waist and upper thigh pieces and two bottom pieces. Using my Kelly Anorak Pattern, I cut out the jacket front pieces from the pant tops, and the back pieces from the lower legs. I chose this pattern because I already knew it fit and I liked the style. The Kelly Anorak also has yoke pieces, which I needed since my pants didn’t yield enough fabric for the vest.

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

I bought this amazing vinyl from Joann Fabrics a few months ago to make purse straps, and spared a little of my two yards for the front and back vest yokes.

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

I didn’t want to add closures to my vest since there was already so much action on the front, the thought of inserting snaps or a zipper felt like a huge project so I added a drawstring around the waist, like in the Kelly Anorak. I also made the drawstring out of vinyl, a little tough to insert, but I love the look.

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

#RefashionFriday Cargo Pants to Vest Refashion - Trish Stitched

Since my vest doesn’t have a lining, and I didn’t want to leave any raw edges, the neck and armholes were finished with fabric binding left over from pant scraps. Almost every bit of the pants were used up! (My awesome cactus shirt was a gift from my mom!)

Inspiration: 

Today I have a few winter refashion-inspiration photos to share to get those creative juices flowing! It’s a breezy 10 degrees here in Jersey today, so I’m all over the warm weather styles.

Give those hole-y jeans from summer a makeover with hand stitching and flannel inserts!

jeanpatchwork

Have a few sweaters laying around that just aren’t doing it for you anymore? Sew them together! Sweater refashions are so common, but for a modern take on it, keep it simple! Basic colors, and combining just two pieces can make the look clean.

Do you have a pair of cargo pants that need a makeover? Need a little more fabric than what you have to work with? Try a large piece of lace or chunk of sweater over the back like in this jacket.

cargojacketrefashion

This #RefashionFriday will be a regular series, I’m hoping 1-2 times a month ( always a Friday! ;]  ) Have you done a recent refashion? Send photos and details to trish@trishstitched.com to be featured! And follow along my refashioning finds through Pinterest!

{Side note: I am totally aware there are other bloggers who have done “Refashion Friday”; I googled the title after coming up with the name and writing this post, but I’ll be putting my own twist on it – hope you will follow along!}

handmade wardrobe · Janome Sewing · sewing

2017 Rewind & Goals for the New Year

Happy 2018! This year felt like it went by crazy fast but as I look back on the projects I made, I’m surprised how many came from 2017! Here are my favorite projects from the past year!

I made two pairs of jeans this year, and both are on constant rotation in my wardrobe.

Floral Tamarack Jacket and Petite Ginger Jeans - Trish StitchedCargo Ginger Jeans - Trish StitchedCargo Ginger Jeans - Trish Stitched

My workout wardrobe got a huge boost!

Purple Floral Workout Gear - Trish StitchedMe Made May 2017: Week 2 & 3- Trish Stitched

And dresses had their moment as well!

Mauve Embroidered Dress - Trish StitchedDSC_0039-011

Trish Stitched

Of course refashions were among the favorites.

Pant Set Refashion - Turia Dungarees with Embroidered Florals - Trish StitchedRefashion Your Summer Wardrobe - Dress to Top Refashion - Trish StitchedBridesmaid Dress Refashion - Trish Stitched#Refashioners2017 Suit Me: Suit to Coat Refashion - Trish Stitched

And prints had their shining moments:

Flower Power Watson Bra - Trish StitchedCactus Print Gina Shorts- Trish Stitched

I also did some really fun projects for Janome.com!

Janome Skyline S9 Embroidered Top - Trish StitchedJanome Skyline S9: Embroidered Shoes and Cactus Lou Box Top HackJanome Skyline S9: Embroidered Shoes and Cactus Lou Box Top Hack4th of July Clutch & Wristlet Tutorial - Janome - Trish Stitched

Every time a “New Year” comes around, it’s usually a time of reflection and I’ve certainly been reflecting on my sewing journey.

I’m in “refocus” mode and want to start blogging more and interacting more with the sewing community. I’ve had a lot of thoughts over the past year about sharing projects just to share, and sharing to inspire- and working towards finding a balance of making for fun & creating a wearable wardrobe.

I also tend to keep to myself in the sewing world, I will “like” and make comments online but in terms of having online sewing buddies, I’m not one to reach out. I think it’s the introvert in me – and that is something I would like to work on more this year.

For 2018, jeans are still on my radar. I’m excited to make more pairs and finally get rid of my RTW jeans. I can’t wait to make a few Blackwood Cardigans and Kalle Shirt Dresses. I am also really excited to do more refashions and I have a whole pile of clothes waiting to be transformed! I’ve also pre-ordered Melissa Fehr’s new active wear book that’s being released in March!

And in other news, I’m hoping to release some patterns of my own in the new year! After making my latest handbag, I decided I want to share my patterns with the world – not just my finished bags. I don’t have too much of a timeline on this, but it’s all in the works! Here’s my latest bag:

Trish StitchedTrish StitchedTrish Stitched

I have so many projects for 2018, what are you planning on making?